TMB 4: Mostly SPECTACULAR...with a Downhill Suck to keep us humble

Brilliant sun this am with ice on the rocky path as we left Rifugio Elisabetta. Took a turn off the main trail and UP to the most spectacular views yet. Crystal clear skies and smiles on everyone's faces after yesterday's storm...well, except for three of our Palestinian friends who missed the turn and didn't know until their three buddies yelled at them from 1,000 feet up the trail - we could see them still way down on the road. Ooopps. They are the coolest guys - and there are also several Israelis who hike with them as well - all good friends. Wouldn't it be something if our world leaders could take a long hike (literally) with our so-called enemies? So interesting to hear their constant chatter as they walk - even though they sometimes miss important turns. I told Vern I want to be like them - noticing everything and photographing it - Vern tells me to hurry up!?  Met some very large cows and a bull on the trail. Three started following me down the mountain. I think they know an Iowa farm girl when they see one.  A highlight was having the finest Italian pasta and a latte at the top of a ski lift resort, the Rifugio Maison Vielle, with a tremendous view across the valley and finding our favorite Aussie friends there. The owner told me they serve 300 lunches a day during ski season!  THEN, the worst part of the day was descending down, down DOWN about a mile under a ski lift. I think I said "suck, suck, suck" each step the whole way down - or maybe it was something that rhymes with that. 1,500 feet up today and 4,500 feet down. Good thing the village awaiting us was awesome. Stayed at the Pensione Venezia in Courmayeur, a small city which ALL of the great mountain climbers call their haven to set out from and return to after great climbs. Had a private room, white sheets, TOWELS, and a sunny balcony where we washed a dried a few clothes. Grocery store next door with dried fruits and nuts, Ritter Espresso chocolate bars and Vern's FAVORITE - strawberry drinkable yogurt. Had a fabulous Italian pizza and big salad for dinner. Lovely breakfast with our Palestinian friends who were now all reunited :)